La Peña del Colorado

Where do you take a newcomer to Buenos Aires to show him the grittier, more rustic, and way romantic side of the music I so love? La Peña del Colorado of course (we mentioned it in our list of Ten Things to Do in Buenos Aires). The live shows are great, but I also recommend staying later to see the spontaneous guitarists and drunken singers that stick around until dawn. Plan for a late night.

 La Jury

Last Friday we watched La Jury sing her heart out for over two hours. La Jury, whose real name is Luciana, is from Buenos Aires. She sings in the style called “canto criollo.” Here are the names of a few famous criollo singers from Chile, Argentina, and Mexico to help you get familiarized with the style should you want to study up on the style before getting here (Violeta Parra, Mercedes Sosa, Lhasa del Sela, Chango Rodriguez, Oscar Valles, Chavela Vargas). 

At first, La Jury was accompanied by Carlos Delgado on guitar and vocals. 

Midway through her performance, master guitarist, Carlos Moscardini, joined her. Amazing. Truly amazing. 

 Carlos Moscardini

My memory stick was full, which was a total bummer because Carlos Moscardini’s guitar playing coupled with La Jury’s amazing pipes was truly spectacular. But here is Carlos Moscardini on guitar. Wow!

La Peña del Colorado is located in Palermo/Barrio Norte on Guemes, 3657. Call for a reservation and ask for a table close to the stage. The show was scheduled to start at 10:00 but really began closer to 10:30 (as is to be expected in Argentina). It cost 25 pesos for the show, and we had some dinner, too. Now, let me say that I would not go to La Peña del Colorado for sophisticated dishes or the best of Buenos Aires (here’s the menu). But I love that it is so very typical. Typical parrilla fare. Very good empanadas salteñas. Yummy casseroles of pumpkin with quinoa and goat cheese. Traditional guisos or locro. Tablas of cheese, meats and olives. It’s not creative; it’s traditional. As it should be.


La Jury y Carlos Moscardini

If you really want to do things the way the locals do, order a penguino instead of a regular bottle of wine and ask for a bottle of soda to go with it. The penguino is actually the shape of the pitcher that the house wine is served in. Because it’s not the greatest quality wine, Argentines often add a bit of soda to it. It’s like a sangria without the goodies. If you’re picky about wine, you might want to get a regular bottle first to have with your food and then switch over to the penguino when your taste buds don’t care anymore.



Filed under argentina, buenos aires, culture, folclore, food, music, restaurants

8 responses to “La Peña del Colorado

  1. We lived not too far from La Peña del Colorado. It was a great place to get a reasonable, traditional meal. Also, there were some vegetarian options.

    Sometimes, if you eat dinner American time, you can hear the singers practicing! 😉

  2. This looks like a great spot to enjoy a night out. I’m sure your out-of-town guests were very pleased with your selection!

  3. Hey there Still Life in S.A. (not BA… too bad). Thanks for mentioning the vegetarian dishes. It’s true… they do have a number of options. Those pumpkin dishes were really good. I’m jealous that you guys got to hear rehearsals. Better than the radio for sure.

    Hi Katie… I think you’d love La Peña. Do you guys get much folklore down in Necochea? I need to go read your blog and catch up on your whereabouts.

  4. I’ve listened to Argentine folk music on the radio, but I have yet to attend a live performance. I enjoy that style of music, so I bet I would love La Peña! Next time I am in the Capital, maybe we could meet up. 🙂

  5. YES! That would be so great. You’ll have to let me know when you’re here. And if I head to Necochea, I’ll be in touch for sure! Besos…..

  6. Paul Pettigrew

    Where can we buy a penguino? We have tried they were selling them but have ceased stocking them.
    We live in Perth, Western Australia and it is impossible to buy such items here.
    We backpacked through Central and South America and enjoyed local wines in Argentina poured from penguinos. We now regret not buying one!!!
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
    Paul and Trish Pettigrew

  7. Hi Paul… I’ll look into it. I really don’t know if it’s possible to buy them online, but if so… I would guess they can be shipped. There’s got to be a place for penguinos online.

  8. Hi Paul, here are a few places I found online. The question will be to see whether they will send it to you in Australia and what they’ll charge to do so.
    Mercado Libre has the traditional ones here

    And Calma Chica is a store here that also has them in brown or white, but I don’t know if they will do online shopping.

    You could try calling them (I’m sure they speak English if your Spanish isn’t up to ordering on the phone… that can be hard).

    Also, try searching for pinguino jarra (or penguin pitcher in Spanish). There are tons in eBay type stores here in Argentina. If you contact the seller, they may ship to you. You can always use Babelfish to compose the message and/or understand what the seller replies.

    Best of luck and if I find another option, I’ll let you know.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s